Crack of doom mgb

Started by hottvr May 15, Replies: 9. Somebody's smoking crack Started by jaybird Mar 2, Replies: Fuel pump needing a tap -- approaching doom? Started by DashSix Oct 1, Replies: 4. Spridgets Classified. Triumph Classifieds. Austin Healey Classifieds. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…. Jun 13, Engine Rebuild Disaster - Cylinder Crack.

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Mar 16, Oct 1, Door Panel Hardware. Dec 30, Door Latch Adjustment. Dec 19, Door Panel Measurements. Dec 13, It is oke again. Regards Peter van de Velde. Peter, I've just gone out and measured the gap in my rebuilt 72 roadster original shell and i believe that 10 mm is too tight. Not to worry though. The main task is to get door alignment and gapping accurately set so that the waistline runs level and then the gaps between the front wing and door and the rear of the door and rear wing are approx 4mm, but in any event parallel and equal at the A post and B post.

Fit the rubbers, lock and strikers and adjust the doors for perfect closing. If you cannot get this then adjust the screen and also file the slots in the tops of the doors to allow the quarterlights slide rearwards. Adjust the parallelism of the gap in the screen angle and also by packing the quarterlight mounts on the front face of the leg and also by fitting slotted washers under the top of door mounts if desired.

This will also be held by the bottom brackets. Now that's not all because you will have to fit the dropglass and ensure that it operates properly and that the rear slide has adequate adjustment to allow it to fit correctly. All in all this can be a most frustrating job that is linked to so many things but door adjustment does NOT come into it as this is determined by panel fit and gapping. Hello Ian, Thanks for your reaction. My door alignment and gaps are near perfect and even.

It took an imense amount of work while fitting new door skins but it was worth it. So i don't have any problems there. The 13 or 14 mm you mention is a lot. I checked an unrestored roadster yesterday evening and this showed a not quit even gap which at the bottom was 7mm and at the top 10mm.

The 7 mm was clearly too tight while the rubber was damaged there. Regards Peter. Peter, you have already outlined the problem in your first post in that if the gap is too small the windscreen will push the door down. This leads to what we know as the "crack of doom" which is a crack which starts under the quarterlight and moves down the face of the door. The 10mm gap is definitely too tight and squashes the seal a bit so you should do everything you can to get a bit more space here before you continue.

It's always easy when you have too much space but if you haven't got enough then its a real problem. It's great that you have the doors well aligned but don't loose this now under any circumstances although you will have to lift the tail end slightly after you fit them all up as the weight of all the fittings and trim will make the rear edge drop about 3mm.

Hello Ian, I know what you mean with the "crack of doom". This was one of the reasons to replace the door skin because the old skin was cracked there. I welded a small sheet of steel under the new skin to avoid cracks. I will now as you mentioned, fit the door glass but i compared dimensions with the other roadster and the door is about 6mm shorter than on the unrestored roadster so i believe i don't have much room to slide the quarterlights backwards.

After fitting the new door skin, i trial fitted the quarter lights but not the sliding window. Although the door is shorter on the car i am restoring, i don't believe the shell sacked because the line where the chrome strips has to be fitted on front fender, door and rear fender is very straight.

I replaced the sills. These were only rusted near the front and rear fender and i fitted a thick pipe between front door hinge and the door lock to avoid the shell to sack.

After replacing the sills, i renewed the door skins. I also checked the rubber between quarter lights-front window frame and without pressing, its mmm thick so now i am convinced, i will need the mm you mentioned before. It looks like i will need to slide the front window frame mm formard. As you say, its a lot of fiddlng but i want to do the right way to avoid cracks in the quarter light or door skin.

DPO Dreaded Previous Owner, usually used when one finds a bodge or a hack used to cover up a problem instead of purchasing the correct part to fix it.

Also used in conjuction with other adjectives when Bondo is discovered. The rear tail light had been held on by duct tape for years when I bought my LBC. See also DPO. This can kill you if it discharges through your body. See also LT. MG, Triumph, Austin-Healey, Morgan, etc LT Low Tension, or low voltage 12V half of ignition system comprising of coil primary winding, distributor points or equivalent , electric tachometer, and possibly ballast resistor.

See also HT. Lucas The manufacturer of most of the electrical bits in British cars and motorcycles. Unfairly given a bad rap for the tendancy of cars neglected for many years to break down. See also "Have you checked the ground connection and the bullet connectors?

It's 'old stock', but never been used. This is important for items which are no longer manufactured, or for which only poor quality reproductions are manufactured. For example, if you find a dusty 30 year old box with an unused Lucas switch in it, it's NOS. Octane The ability of gasoline petrol to resist detonation. Higher octane fuel burns slower than low octane fuel.

Despite what some people think, there's no gain to be had by using a higher octane above whatever doesn't cause pinging in your engine.

Correct parts made by the company that supplied the factory. Still made today to for our cars. Can be caused by too-advanced timing, low octane fuel, too high compression ratio. Less severe form of detonation. See also Knocking. Prince of Darkness See Lucas. See also CBB. Rostyle Rubery Owen mag-style wheels Run-on See dieseling Smiths Manufacturer of gauges that usually work, and sometimes show the correct value.

SU Skinners Union. Carburettor manufacturer early cars, and later cars with smart owners. Originally, carbs had leather parts, hence the connection to tanneries.

MGBs have two SUs, each feeding two cylinders. May also stand for "Seldom Understood". Tickover Idle at lowest possible RPM, about rpm, although some tuning manuals call for rpm good luck!

Understeer When the front tires lose traction while cornering and you end up going straight instead Weber Carburettor manufacturer popular with people who have too much money in their pocket and not enough books in their library. Did you find this article helpful? Rate it or ask a question below! Marketing Course Paper. Thanks for the interesting info.

I am told registration will not be done without locating the number. Will check again based on your info. I have a MGB but the local circuit court clerk who was in charge of transfering the title looked in a book and said it was a and that is how it was registered.

I'm proably going to have to take it back this spring and get it changed. It will be a mess.